The Estonian Blue Vararfeldr
I based this striking blue cloak on a textile fragment discovered in a bog near Pöide on the island of Saaremaa, Estonia, dated to the 9th–10th centuries. Although only a fragment measuring about 15 × 27 centimetres survives, records suggest it originally formed part of a much larger garment.
The surviving fragment preserves a tubular selvedge, woven differently from the main 2/2 twill fabric, as well as a narrow braided strip sewn along the edge. Scientific analysis revealed that the cloak was originally dyed blue using an indigo-bearing plant, most likely woad. Traces of blue dye were found in the warp, weft, pile fibres, and decorative braid.
I dyed the wool for my recreation bright blue with woad, moss, bark, eucalyptus, and dyer's chamomile. I recreated both the tubular selvedge and the decorative band, and included a tablet-woven header band, to strengthen the weave.
As the full size of the original cloak is unknown, I chose to make this one into a striking half-cape.
The cloak is included in my Vararfeldr exhibition, which is currently touring across the UK and Europe.
